March 10, 2010 - Ofu and Olosega Islands.

Today is a special day for a special person in my life. She is my mother, the person along with my father who brought me here. It is my mother’s 77th birthday. Happy Birthday Mom and I love you! I asked “L” to call my parents and wish my mother happy birthday. She did and when my mother came to the phone, I could tell there was slight panic on “L” s part as she spoke to “L” in her native tongue. I coached “L” to agree with what she said. A few pleasantries exchanged and they hung up the phone.

Ofu and Olosega from a distance taken
last week on the way to Rose Atoll

When we were approaching Manu’o Islands last night the seas got a bit choppy like it is doing now. I talked to “L” and told her where we were going several days ago while in Pago Pago. She warned me to remain vigilant and not to go ashore. Each culture has something that is beyond bizarre laced with ancient superstitions that pass down each generation. I asked her why and she recalled tales her grandmother had told to her about Manu’o Islands. I have never met the woman as she passed away long before I came into “L”s life. Apparently there are a lot of ghosts on these islands and from what she tells me, not the friendly kind. Luck is bad here and that habitants are not friendly, contrary to what you would encounter in both Samaos.

Ofu portion of the two islands

I’m not superstitious but there are myths I do respect. Sailors by nature are superstitious. These include not whistling on the bridge, departing for sea on a Friday and from Asia departing for sea during heavy rains. I have left ports on Fridays during my sailing career and encountered unfortunate incidences. Whenever I departed from Seattle, if it was raining, just when we are about to leave, the sun would come out. It would not start raining until we were out of the straits and into the open sea. Maybe some will say it is just a coincidence. Maybe so, but it is ironic that it would rain all morning and clear up just when we are about to depart.

Ofu and Olosega bridge between the islands

I woke this morning, the winds picked up and seas were choppy again. The ride last night was rolling but nothing like I have encountered in the Pacific Northwest during winter. When doing my daily rounds, I normally find solitude on the bow but today I did not. As the ship turned, the wind nearly blew my hat off and felt heavy resistance as I walked towards the bow sound powered phone. When I walked to the boat deck afterwards, I talked to the coxswain Mr. “K” and told him about tales my wife told me as we gazed at the tall mountain of Olosega. He just smiled and we went along our way to complete our respective tasks.

Olosega Island, American Samoa

I finished up my daily rounds and noticed that the davit above my shop sounded as though it was not moving all the way. I didn’t think much as we always have glitches here and there. Then the announcement was made that all divers going on the HI-2 small boat report to the 01 deck starboard side boarding area to get into the boat. It didn’t faze me. I was working in the shop setting up the medical computer when I heard traffic over the radio saying that HI-2 had developed engine trouble and was coming back to the ship. I asked the scientist who was on board what had happened and he told me. I asked in jest if we had a shaman or a cultural expert. I told him the tales I heard several days before from my wife. Like a baseball bat hitting me, I realized the irony of this entire situation.

Ta'u Island in the distance

HI-2 is Mr. “K”s boat and his mission started off wrong from the beginning with the davit. It was he whom I told him about the folklore of these islands. The day after “L” had told me these old stories, I got a message in my inbox indicating that we may encounter bad weather during our one week stay here. Well, everything fell into place. I talked to the wife tonight and told her what had happened. I assured her that I will remain vigilant and not go ashore (not that I have the chance anyway) or even swim near the islands if given the opportunity. Am I superstitious, well not really…or maybe I am?

Recovery operations with Ofu Island in the background

Palmyra Islands are supposed to be “creepy” by some accounts but I have been there and it was beautiful. A true paradise on earth I would say and we are going to be there next month.

Before I close tonight, is there a shaman on board?

Manuia-po from the islands of Ofu and Olosega as I bid you goodnight from the South Pacifi